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Saturday, August 9, 2014

Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

Udaipur remains a city largely untouched by modernity and retains a charm unlike any other city in Rajasthan. The urban sprawl goes beyond the city's original boundaries that is best left ignored as the old city engulfs one in a romantic splendour. Udaipur is an enchanting city full of surprises, with lakes in the midst of sandy terrain and green forested hills.

The city is centered around the mirror-like Lake Pichola with its straight-out-of-a-fairy-tale Lake Palace in the middle. Upmarket hotels, spectacular palaces and havelis are somewhere around the lake to welcome the endless stream of international and domestic tourists. Other than the romantic palaces and rugged fortresses that recount its history, Udaipur's old city is on the east of Lake Pichola.  All around the old section there are narrow streets lined with shops and craftsmen's ateliers that encourage hours of window-shopping.

The Pichola Lake is the centerpiece around which Udaipur revolves. The lake lies to the immediate west of the ridge on which the City Palace of Udaipur stands. Lake Pichola has two islands -- Jag Niwas and Jag Mandir. The Old City with its traditional flavors is on the east side of this lake. The area between the Jagdish Temple and the City Palace is the hotel strip. Also, around here are many rooftop restaurants that this city is associated with that offer interesting and affordable eating options from the local to the Continental cuisine to please every palate. he Lal Ghat is the quintessential backpacker haven with rooms overlooking a central courtyard filled with plants and tables for socializing. 

The main shopping area in Udaipur are Hathipol, Chetak Circle, Clock Tower, Lake Palace Road, Bapu Bazaar and City Market. Here one can find a wonderful display of traditional toys, brightly colored garments, miniature paintings in Rajput/Mughal style, chunky silver jewelry and cane furniture shops.

Udaipur is a sprawling city spread around its lakes. Jagdish Mandir is the focal point of the old city and the hub for tourists. The City Palace is right next door. 

Udaipur has scores of rooftop cafes overlooking the lake. These offer a visual treat on any winter afternoon of summer evening apart from a varied dining pleasure. 

Udaipur is a city of monuments and museums. Begin with the City Palace. It is the largest palace complex in Rajasthan, rising 30 meters above Lake Pichola. The 244 meter long palace is partly preserved as a museum displaying a large and varied collection of artifacts. 

Located within the Fateh Prakash Palace, Crystal Gallery is an astounding collection of over 600 crystal objects ordered by Maharaja Sajjan Singh in 1877.

Out of the palace, the first stop can be the 1651-built Jagdish Temple. One can then walk down to Bagore ki Haveli and Gangaur Ghat where evening folk performances are also held. The next stop could be the Vintage Car Museum, the Maharana's personal collection of exclusive four-wheelers turned to a museum. Bhartiya Lok Kala Mandal is a cultural museum with a very good display of puppetry and folk art, music and dance. Shilpgram, a little away from the city, is a living museum: hutments of different tribal groups have been created here and real people liv e in them and sell their wares. Udaipur's gardens include Sahelion ki Badi, Pratap M emorial, Sajjan Niwas and Dudh Talai -- all very pleasant for a languid walk and some history. For more history, there is Sajjan Garh, the monsoon palace atop a hill and Ahar, the royal cenotaphs.  

If you look to shopping for the famous Rajasthani silver, head for the market near the Clock Tower. You would also find bangle sellers, shops with an innumerable variety of block-printed bed spreads and other articles, and the famous 'lehriya' saris. At Hathipole, you would find 'jootis' (traditional embroidered leather sandals), saris, wooden souvenirs, camel leather souvenirs, and many handicrafts. 

Bapu Bazaar is the area in Udaipur for regular shopping like readymades, textiles, jewelry, crockdery, homeware, food articles etc. Khadi Gram Udyog has handloom weaves and textiles. 

Mewar Festival: Marking the advent of Spring, it is held in March/April during the Gangaur festival in Udaipur. The two-day festivities are marked by boat processions as well as a 'shobha yatra' wherein elephants, camels, horses, and folk artistes are out on the streets. 

Shilpgram Utsav: Held for the first ten days of December at Shilpgramin Udaipur, it is an art and crafts festival.

Getaways:

Nathdwara: Built in the early 18th century, Nathdwara, 48 km from Udaipur, has a simple shrine dedicated to Lord Krishna. The temple is the most celebrated of the Vaishnava shrines of Lord Krishna.

Bambora: Bambora can be used as a base for a number of excursions, including longer trips to the neigboring States of Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat. Shorter excursions could include a trip to the Jaisamand lake, the historic city of Udaipur, the Chittoragarh Fort and the Jagat temples, dating back to the 10th century.

Eklingji: Chiseled out of sanndstone and marble, a complex of 108 temples enclosed by high walls, it was built in 734 AD. The temple is devoted to the family deity of the rulers of Mewar.

Kumbhalgarh Fort: Kumbhalgarh, 42 km from Udaipur, is famous for its 15th century fort and game sanctuary. Approachable by road, the huge stone bastion stands atop a hill and allows access through spiked gates. The fort wall stretches for miles over the hillside and a walk o it can be invigorating. There is a crocodile farm in the sanctuary and a forest rest house. 

Ranakpur: 90 km from Udaipur and 48 km fro m Kumbhlgarh are the Ranakpur temples. The cluster of temples, made of intricately sculpted white marble, come across as a marvelous feat of architecture. The Jain temples house statues of Mahavira and other Jain saints. 

Ghanerao: Ghanerao, 18 km from Ranakpur, houses the castle where Meerabai (legendary worshipper of Lord Krishna) spent her childhood. Within the red sandstone walls of Royal Castle Ghanerao, built in the 15th century, is a temple with the idol of Lord Krishna Meerabai worshipped. Several lakes surround the Ghanerao village. The castle can be the base for a horse safari in the region.

Devigarh: 27 km from Udaipur is Devigarh, after crossing the undulating hills around the city. The village is called Delwara. The village has the quintessential charm of a Rajasthani village. 

Dungarpur: 105 km from Udaipur, this 13th century city is centered around a lake. The focal point is Udai Bilas Palace. the residence of the royal family and also a hotel. The palace features intricately sculpted pillars and panels, ornate balconies, arches and friezes, and one of the largest collections of hunting trophies.

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